St John Lateran Basilica: The Pope’s Cathedral

A common error describes St Peter’s Basilica as the pope’s cathedral. However, the cathedral of the pope, as the Bishop of Rome, is St John Lateran basilica. It is, therefore, the highest-ranking church in the Catholic hierarchy.

Officially known as the “archbasilica of the Most Holy Saviour and St John the Baptist and St John the Evangelist”, the basilica derives its less unsnappy name from the palace of the Laterani family, which was converted, by orders of Emperor Constantine, into a church in 324 AD, making it the oldest in Rome.

It was the primary residence of the popes until the 14th century, when the papal court moved to Avignon, France.

Over the centuries, the basilica has been subject to several renovations and restorations. In 897, an earthquake destroyed the basilica; it was rebuilt to the exact dimensions of its predecessor. Two devastating fires, in 1308 and 1360, required major reconstructions. Neglect as well as the ravages and fashions of time necessitated further remodelling St John Lateran’s grand façade dates from 1735. Its main entrance, in a portico that includes a 4th-century statue of Constantine — is an enormous set of doors which once opened to imperial Rome’s Curia Julia (or Senate House). It was moved to St John Lateran in 1660.

The basilica’s interior is adorned with exquisite chapels, altars and tiling (look out for the optical illusion created by black and white squares). Notable architectural features include the impressive marble canopy, the Baldachin, which covers the papal altar, and the vast nave lined with majestic columns.

The apse mosaics, with a golden background, depict Christ surrounded by his mother, the apostles, saints and popes. The mosaics are from different eras. The figure of Christ with the angels is from the 5th century or earlier — some believe it is the oldest public depiction of Jesus — as is the cross beneath. The saints next to the cross are from the 6th century. Other figures, including St Francis of Assisi and St Anthony of Padua, were added in the 13th century.

Pieces of Jesus’ table

The most noteworthy relic in the basilica is in a reliquary above the tabernacle, behind a bas-relief of the Last Supper. It holds fragments of the table at which Jesus instituted the Eucharist on the night he was betrayed, brought from the Holy Land in the 4th century by St Helen (our Saint of the Month in August). Within the papal (main) altar are pieces of the wooden altar at which St Peter celebrated Mass.

The basilica is lined with 12 marble statues, including 11 of the Twelve, with St Paul taking Judas’ place. These were created in the 1700s by different artists.

Several popes are entombed in St John Lateran, including Leo XIII, who reigned from 1878-1903. He is the last pope to date to not be buried in St Peter’s Basilica (Pope Francis has stated his wish to be buried in St Mary Major).

His predecessor, Pius IX also rests there, as do Pope Clement XII — who initiated the construction of the famous Trevi fountain and installed the statue of Constantine in the basilica’s portico — and Pope Martin V, who ended the Great Western Schism of 1378–1417 and restored St John Lateran.

Across the road, pilgrims visit the Scala Sancta, or Holy Stairs, which tradition says is the marble staircase on which Jesus walked before he was condemned by Pontius Pilate. The stairs are believed to have been brought to Rome by St Helena; they were installed in their current position in 1589 by Pope Sixtus V.

Pilgrims may ascend the 28 stairs, but only on their knees. The marble stairs are covered by wood. In 2019 the wood was removed for restoration, and for a few weeks the stairs were exposed, for the first time in 500 years, and accessible in their original marble state — a group of Southern Cross pilgrims had the privilege of putting their knees on these steps in May that year.

The feast of the Dedication of St John Lateran Basilica is on November 9, the anniversary of Pope Sylvester I presiding over the official dedication of the archbasilica in 324.

Published in the November 2024 issue of The Southern Cross magazine